Special White Man…(fill in the blank)

Budget Travel, Nomadic Lifestyle, Travel

I can’t possibly convey what a great debt I owe to my good friend Ben Bachelder for lending me the phrase “special white man _______”. I first heard Ben utter this phrase during a travelogue he was giving at McMurdo Station Antarctica. Ben was referencing something to do with drinking water in third world countries and the awkwardness presented when a local host might be so gracious as to invite one in to their home. Ben said something like “…so then your host offers you a glass of water. What do you do? Either you can drink it, get sick and deal OR you can reach for your bottle of ’special white man water’”. It loses quite a lot in print, trust me, it was funny as hell at the time and Marsha (my lovely girlfriend) and I have gotten a great deal of mileage out of the phrase.

The term “tourist” versus “traveler” is a bit of an issue with me. I firmly believe that if some place on the face of the earth is heavily touristed, it’s for a good reason. Either that place has some significant culture, history or natural beauty. I believe that only elitists would label some place unworthy of a visit simply because it is “over-touristed”.

My perceptions have been shattered. Here I sit in Mancora, Peru. I booked the Loki hostel ahead of my arrival here. This place epitomizes everything about “the gringo trail” and “over-touristed”. Don’t get me wrong, the hostel is a lovely place but DAMN….I’ve never been to a place that caters to “tourists” more than this place. Upon check-in, I was immediately encumbered with a wrist band (much like the one you might get at a hospital or when you buy an all-inclusive pass to the carnival). The idea behind the wrist band is for A) security…only those bearing the wrist-band are allowed on the property and B) It is possible to charge meals, drinks, etc to your room. While I appreciate the extra security, I resent the fact that I am immediately identified as a guest of this place when I venture outside the immediate premises.

The disney-ization of Peru doesn’t seem to stop at the Special White Man resort hostel however. EVERY restaurant, store, travel office etc seems to cater ONLY to tourists. I have spent a LOT of time trying my damnedest to learn Spanish and while I appreciate the ease with which I can order a meal, buy a bus ticket or get a taxi, I am a bit resentful that EVERY time I walk into one of the above mentioned establishments, the people speak to me first in English, the menus are in English and any other information I might need is also in English. I’m a bit conflicted actually. I appreciate that things are “easier” in Peru but I also feel that my experience is diminished because of it. In Ecuador this never would have happened. The people there, while certainly worldly, don’t cater to tourists much, if at all (outside The Galapagos). Either one learns Spanish or they have an awful time trying to find their way.

So, for the first time in my recent memory, I find myself in a place that I would define as “touristy” simply because the tourism here doesn’t appear to have grown organically. Tourists are catered to only because they are tourists and not because there is anything remarkable to see or do here. Granted, the surf break is pretty incredible, but it’s nothing any more spectacular than any other surf break along the many miles of the South American Pacific coast. I guess this is what people speak of when they express their loathing of “The Gringo Trail”.

Will @ December 6, 2009