The Ocean is Free, Brah!
Quoted from my surf instructor, John Paul.
Surfing was the entire reason I chose to come to Honolulu and Waikiki. I looked at pictures of Waikiki and immediately filed it in the same part of my mind reserved for shopping malls – not that there isn’t an ugly, charactlerless side to Waikiki – there is, but one hasn’t got to go far to get away from all of that and experience Waikiki and Honolulu.
Surfing was invented by the ancient Hawaiians and was later discouraged by the arriving missionaries. In all likelihood surfing may have been wiped out as a sport save for a defiant young man named Duke Kahanamoku, who, with his friends continued to ride waves at Waikiki despite opposition from the missionaries. These last holdouts fueled a resurgence in surfing and became known as the Waikiki Beach Boys – teaching others to ride the waves.
Today, Waikiki is world renown as one of the best places to learn to surf. The long, gentle waves coupled with a (mostly) forgiving bottom surface combine to give the aspiring surfer a positive experience and an introduction into the sport and culture of surfing.
I had tried to learn to surf a few years ago, in fact learning to surf was my main aim on a trip to Mexico. It didn’t go too well. I had a pushy instructor who spoke English only a little better than I speak Spanish. It was a three-hour lesson and I was completely worn out by the end of it. I knew I wanted to give surfing another try and couldn’t have been more pleased when I met my instructor on Waikiki. John Paul is a young man who is absolutely in love with what he is doing and doesn’t seem to have a care in the world. Having been born and raised right here in Honolulu he works at “the family shop” renting boards, umbrellas and other beach equipment to tourists and out on the surf everyday sharing his passion with others. One of the most laid-back and friendly people I have met on Oahu, John Paul was a pleasure and will serve as a long-time inspiration and has, in fact, changed my life.
That’s all for today, surf’s up, brah!, gotta go!
