Worst Border Crossing in South America

Budget Travel, Nomadic Lifestyle, Travel

Or not?

Travel forums as well as conversations amongst travelers are rife with tales of the dangers and hassles of crossing the border between Ecuador and Peru at Huaquillas (Ecuador) and Aguas Verdes (Peru). Historically, this area has been disputed by both countries, but more recently the countries have reached an agreement. As a result of the historical disputes there is a bit of a “no-man’s land” that stretches for approximately 3km between the two towns and the respective immigration control points for both countries. Con-artists, crooked taxi drivers and dishonest money changers take advantage of the lawlessness and naivete of foreigners who travel through this area.

It is recommended that travelers take international buses that will wait for you through all the border formalities and save the hassle from people out to scandalize them. I heeded this advice and found a C.I.F.A. bus from Guayaquil to Tumbes (Peru) which was supposed to be direct service (as an aside here, for some reason travelers whom I have spoken to seem to mistake “direct” for “express”…direct doesn’t mean that the bus doesn’t stop…it means that you don’t have to transfer to get from point A to point B). Anyhow, the C.I.F.A. bus service leaves a lot to be desired. It was standing room only for much of the trip to the border and the hawkers who got on everytime the bus stopped were quite annoying, but that’s life in Ecuador and that’s what I was there to experience.

At any rate, I was under the impression that bus service was to be direct all the way to Tumbes and that I would have to find a different bus from there to Mancora. So…when we stopped at the immigration control point on the Ecuadorian side of the border I figured that the bus was going to wait for me to process my passport (i.e. obtain the necessary exit stamp). I even confirmed this thought in my best broken Spanish…and believed that I received an answer of affirmation. I didn’t bother to grab my bag from under the bus….imagine my surprise when, after I got my exit stamp, I turned around to see the tail end of the bus zooming away! So, here I am at the dodgiest spot in South America (allegedly) and I am now separated from half of my belongings.

So…a bus line official sought me out, explaining that I could now get on a different bus that would take me all the way to Mancora. I explained to him that my bag had gone away with the other bus and I sure would like it back. He made a quick phone call and explained to me that the bag would be returned. My confidence in my own ability to speak and understand Spanish was now quite low given the circumstances…so I didn’t really know if I understood what was going on or if I could expect to ever see my bag again…nonetheless, I figured I had several hours before dark and I would harass C.I.F.A. officials until I got results. As it turned out, no harassment was needed as my bag did, indeed, return with the other bus (which had turned around and now headed back to Ecuador). I grabbed my bag and happily boarded the bus for M

Will @ December 3, 2009